FROM NOVICE TO EVEREST: Conquering Peaks in Under a Year – A Journey of Determination and Discovery- By Jane Gatonye

FROM NOVICE TO EVEREST: Conquering Peaks in Under a Year – A Journey of Determination and Discovery. By Jane Gatonye.

In the crisp air of October 18th, 2023 standing at 5364 meters above sea level, the base camp of the world’s highest mountain, Mt. Everest, became the stage for my euphoria. A journey that spanned months, weeks, and days culminated in a moment where the joy of achievement defied explanation. A year prior, the notion of sitting near Everest felt like a dream – a dream realized through unwavering determination.

In 2022, at 57, I unearthed a passion for hiking. From the modest start of a one-day hike organized by a local church, I delved into the world of trails, conquering peaks like 6 days Mt. Kilimanjaro, 5895M ASL and 3 days Mt. Kenya, lenana peak, 4985M ASL. The transformative power of nature unfolded in the silence, the challenge, and the moments of self-meditation amid the beauty of God’s creation.

In the realm of hiking, I stumbled upon a poster advertising a captivating 4-day Mt. Kenya expedition via the Chogoria route. Intrigued by the idea of conquering Kenya’s highest peak, I hastily sought a group to join. Unfortunately, a last-minute cancellation dashed my plans. Undeterred, I embarked on a quest to organize a solo trek, leading me to a hiking gear dealer who is also a seasoned guide. In a surprising turn of events, on the morning of May 30, 2023, at 6:30 AM, we were perched at the summit of Kenya’s highest mountain, Lenana peak, via the scenic Sirimon route – a 54-kilometer journey that commenced from Sirimon gate. The euphoria at the peak was indescribable, offering breathtaking views of the Central part of Kenya Highlands.

For avid adventurers, scaling Mt. Kenya naturally sparks contemplation of the next challenge – Uhuru Peak on Mt. Kilimanjaro. My thoughts soon fixated on this iconic Tanzanian peak. Extensive research led me to a reliable guide based in Arusha, Tanzania, who presented a seven-day trek itinerary to Uhuru Peak. Preparing for this epic adventure, I honed my skills by conquering local peaks, including Mt. Kinangop, standing proudly at 3900 meters above sea level in the Aberdare Ranges. This mountain has   earned the moniker “Mother of All” due to its formidable terrain and near impossible peak. Thanks to the Cushy Adventures team who spearheaded this challenging hike, many of us summited.

On the morning of July 29, 2023, at 8:15 AM, I found myself among fellow hikers in the shadow of a signpost proclaiming, “Congratulations, you are now at Uhuru Peak, Tanzania, 5895 meters above sea level—Africa’s highest point, the world’s highest free-standing mountain.” As I grappled with the surreal nature of the moment, a heartwarming scene unfolded before me—a young man, kneeling before his summit-clad girlfriend, proposing amidst the breathtaking panorama of the Horn of Africa. Witnessing this mountainous declaration of love left us all in awe, applauding their beautiful story.

Beyond the brevity of the summit stay—limited by the piercing cold—one’s journey leaves an enduring imprint. Reflecting on the 6-day trek, it’s a journey of resilience, of giving up comforts, of testing your body beyond limits and relying on God to see you safely through. It was so fulfilling to receive my certificate of achievement immediately on coming down from the mountain

On the way home, I reflected on my hiking journey this far. The experiences in Kenya and Tanzania; the memories, views and lessons that will endure a lifetime, so different yet so similar. To note Kilimanjaro trails are quite well developed, the rest houses are beautiful and fairly comfortable. Mt. Kenya’s trails are less developed, the rest houses have limited capacity but this is compensated by great camping experiences. Improving the trails and the infrastructure would make Mt. Kenya a formidable attraction for hikers the world over.

Reunited with my family, I was humbled by the cascade of congratulations and grateful for their unwavering support throughout this extraordinary adventure. If the thought of ascending these majestic peaks hasn’t crossed your mind, you’re truly missing out on a transformative experience.

What next after Mt. Kilimanjaro?

One evening during our family dinner, I dropped a bombshell on my unsuspecting family – I announced my wild idea of trekking to Mt. Everest. Visible shock was on the faces of my entire family. “No mum!” Dinner stopped. Within no time, phones were out and a whole presentation made by our children on “Why not Mt. Everest”. That evening I learnt of green boots & blue jackets that mark the route of Everest. The mood was sobre, and I guess dinner was ruined. I was taken aback by their reaction and seriously doubted Everest was an option. There was no way I would venture there when my entire family thought it was a death certificate. A decision of this magnitude had to have support of the whole family.

Despite this challenging start, the dream refused to die. I researched, talked to different people and above all prayed for God to show me the direction I should take. The idea begun morphing into a possibility with each passing day. Still vividly remembering the first reaction I got, I prepared my presentation on why NOW was the best time to go to Everest. I had just summitted the highest mountain in Kenya and the highest mountain in Africa. What makes most people not summit is altitude sickness. In my mind I was best acclimatized at this point of my hiking journey. If I postponed it to say next year, I would have to retrain and repeat every climb I had done. Our children were the first to be converted. My husband had not uttered one word this far. Few weeks later, after a lot of prayer and soul searching, I brought up the Everest topic again, during breakfast. “Pray about it” my husband said. There and then I knew I had an answer. I believe in prayers. I know God answers prayers. If I got a yes from my husband, then I would also know God would see me through. If I got a no, then I would accept this without regrets. Another week went by and again at breakfast brought up the issue. “Look for a group”. Yes! I was going to Everest. Do you see the power of asking?  I had the blessing of my family. It was a big moment. But the ultimatum was clear—I needed to join a reputable group. I started the search immediately, messaging all the contacts I had.

Now the atmosphere shifted. My family rallied around me, getting me everything I needed, encouraging me, praying with me and putting the finances together. I was well on my way! Referrals poured in from my hiking community, each phone call bringing me closer to a reliable lead in Kathmandu, Nepal’s capital. Ultimately, luck favored me as I found myself joining a group of two hikers from Nairobi, Kenya, planning the same trek to Everest Base Camp. Sure, one dropped out last minute, leaving just the two of us. But hey, two still constitute a group, right? Ultimatum met and my Everest adventure was officially on.

Afternoon of October 7, 2023, I boarded a flight destined for Kathmandu, eagerly anticipating the commencement of a challenging 12-day round-trip trek to the majestic Mount Everest Base Camp. The prospect of this arduous journey loomed ahead, casting a sense of both excitement and trepidation. The meticulous scrutiny of our gear by guides revealed discrepancies, necessitating the acquisition of correct equipment and clothing to meet their stringent requirements. Vitals were meticulously examined. We were good to go. We left Kathmandu early on a four hour road trip to catch our flight to starting point. Nature had other plans. Fog was so heavy that no plane could take off. We were delayed for two days. This was our introduction to Everest. We quickly learnt why it’s earned it’s name. Nothing is predictable. Extreme weather conditions could result in agonizing waits for hikers, sometimes extending to several days, as landing or take-off became unsafe. This unpredictability held true every day of our hike. Finally our expedition kicked off with a 20-minute flight from Ramechap to Lukla. The landing at Lukla Airport, 2860 meters above sea level and nestled between two colossal hills, was nothing short of thrilling and adventurous, now our hike would begin.

It’s at Lukla  I encountered my next obstacle as the cold weather swiftly seized me, a probable consequence of the abrupt weather change. Doubts crept in about my ability to endure the impending trek, but strengthened by optimism and the belief that it all begins in the mind, I forged ahead. My conversations with God begun. They were something like this – “God, you cleared my way to Everest, you rallied my family, you provided resources, you lifted the fog, you didn’t do all this for me to turn back here, am trusting you for this day. Lord it’s your doing”. Repeating this conversation over and over removed my mind from the challenges I faced, especially how badly my lungs were straining. Faithfully, day after day, God delivered, till the goal was achieved. Owing to my lingering cold, I received advice to abstain from consuming fatty foods and eggs, confining me to a diet of boiled sustenance. Having Pledged to forgo meat throughout the trek, irrespective of its source or preparation, I found myself pondering how I would make it on minimal food on such a challenging journey. Haha!

Embarking on the Himalayan adventure of a lifetime, our trusty guide (Sherpa) turned the trek into a seamless expedition, blending safety with unforgettable moments. Picture vibrant Sherpa villages, with Namche Bazaar as the lively heart of the hike and suspension bridges dancing above the Dudh Koshi River. Crossing the suspension bridges was a nightmare for me. The sheer drop is scary to say the least. The dancing would destabilize me, trying to hold on the sides scared my hands, yet I had no choice but to keep going. Acclimatization points like at Namche offered beautiful scenes beyond imagination with moving clouds all around us and snow capped mountains that looked within reach. As we ascended, Thamserku and Ama Dablam loomed large, creating a theatrical backdrop to our grand trek.  Passing through Tengboche, Dingboche and Lobuche, we marveled at the mobile network connectivity and power supply at Everest’s tea houses . These were a rare luxury and came at a price that made us question the value of charging our phones. Gorak hep, our last outpost, and the highest human inhabited village on earth, provided a surreal contrast to the digital world, reminding us that sometimes, the best connection is with the towering peaks around us. Having to navigate unprotected narrow paths that you share with yarks was an extraordinary experience. One characteristic standing out on Everest trails is how quiet it is. The peace and silence provides an unmatched opportunity to enjoy it’s magnificence and gives a deep connection with nature and self.

Day 8 brought me to the iconic rock at Everest Base Camp, sharing the space with a total stranger-turned-photographer. Despite my weariness, the excitement of this monumental moment kept me grinning. How majestic everything looked! Stunning. Beautiful. Awe inspiring. A global squad of young hikers became my cheering team as they happily waited for me to capture the moment. While still up there in the mountain I took a moment to thank and praise God for His faithfulness. He had seen me through. It was done.

As I descended, the beauty of the world unfolded, reinforcing the magnificence of God’s creation. The trek, more than a physical challenge, became a journey of self-discovery and appreciation for the wonders of God.

October 24th 2.30pm I exited JKIA airport to the most loving welcome. Seeing my husband waiting for me was an unforgettable moment. Memories flooded. Beautiful lunch then home. For two days I could barely move. All the exhaustion of past eighteen days landed on me. As I recovered I was marveled, deeply touched and humbled by how widely the message of Everest achievement had spread. Messages were pouring in from family, friends, my hiking community, youngsters, my teachers at all levels, even from people I had not been in touch with for years. The crowning moment was when we celebrated a Thanksgiving Mass organized by my husband. Indeed, glory and honor belongs to God. Him alone. For on the day I called, He answered me.

WHAT NEXT?

There are still more trails to discover, Twelve Apostles in aberdares is top of the list. And maybe one day try scuba diving…

From my slightly over one-year hiking journey, I have learned incredible life lessons;

1. Drawing strength from my faith, I embarked on a walking journey post-spine surgery, turning the possibility of paralysis into a miraculous ascent to the highest mountain. It’s a testament to the power of God.
2. Gratitude is paramount; the priceless gifts of breath, movement, family, and community make every step meaningful. My love for walking is simply because I can, a profound truth celebrated with each thankful stride.
3. Begin your hiking journey with manageable trails, progressively tackling more challenging paths. Start small, dream big, and witness your capabilities grow.
4. Pushing yourself is a key to improvement. Just as our son taught me in the gym, go beyond your limits—whether in hiking or squats—and embrace the process of getting better every day.
5. Challenges in hiking are growth opportunities. Conquer steep ascents and unpredictable weather, viewing difficulties as a chance for personal resilience. Each summit reached is a triumph.
6. Hiking is not just physical; it’s a soulful connection with nature. Amidst trail silence, find moments for self-reflection. The rustle of leaves, birdsong, and whispers of wind become companions on your journey.
7. Engage with supportive hiking communities for shared experiences and encouragement. Like my journey enriched by companionship, connecting with fellow hikers fuels adventurous spirits and aids overcoming obstacles.
8. Prioritize what’s truly important. As the ascent reveals, what was once light can become burdensome. Choose carefully what to carry—essential items like water and lip balm propelled me through the hike. In life, discard useless baggage.
9. Stay focused on your goals. Just as golfers keep their eyes on the ball, strive for your dreams, ignoring distractions and side shows.
10. Celebrate every milestone in your hiking journey, whether conquering a local peak or a renowned mountain summit. Life’s adventures are a series of milestones, each deserving recognition and celebration.

Jane Gatonye is a regular hiker with Cushy Adventures Hikers Community and a strong believer that beginners should be supported to find their own adventure in life.